Coastal Calm: Cefalu, Sicily

Photo Credit: @colettelinley

If you’re thinking of a long weekend in Palermo this spring, then be sure to factor in a visit to Cefalu. This beautiful seaside town is an hour (70km) from Palermo, making it a perfect spot to escape the city for a day trip, or spend a few glorious nights by the sea.

I visited Cefalu whilst on a trip to Sicily with my parents in late April. We flew into Palermo (the capital located in the north east of the island) and because of the lengthy drive to White Lotus’ destination Toarmina we instead stayed on the west coast. We visited Trapani, Marsala, Agrigento, and (saved the best until last) Cefalu.

History

This small city was built around a large rock - Rocco di Cefalu (see pics). Settlements here date back to prehistoric times and Ancient Greek. Over thousands of years the city has been conquered by many groups - including Byzantines, Normans, Arabs and Carthaginians - each leaving some influence. The city is an UNSECO heritage site since 2015, and rightly so. The old town is a collection of a beautiful streets, littered with Sicilian ceramic shops, beautiful eateries and wine bars.

Photo Credit: @colettelinley

Things to do

For me, the main thing to do in Cefalu is relax. Palermo is a hectic place, and Cefalu brings some coastal calm. I would suggest spending a morning exploring the old towns shops, having an aperitivo in the palazzo adjacent to the cathedral and spending the afternoon by your pool, or on the beach with a rental umbrella. And if you fancy, a sunset boat tour.

In terms of activities, you can visit the cathedral Duomo di Cefalù- built in the 12th century by the Normans. Wonder down to medievil washing baths - Lavatoio Medievale, which are just off the Main Street of the old town. If you’re up for a hike you can climb La Rocca and visit the Tempio di Diana (build by the Ancient Greeks). If you’re into art Cefalù even has Museo Mandralisca, housing paintings by Messina.

Photo Credit: @colettelinley

Places to eat and drink

Naturally, given the wealth of fantastic wine that Sicily boasts, Cefalu has some equally fantastic wine bars. For wine with a view I would suggest Le Petit Tonneau. Remember to book in advance if you want a table outside. My favourite wine (and glassware) was at Enoteca Rossorubino di Valenziano Alessandro.

Cefalu has many good restaurants including Michelin recommended Cortile Pepe. However, I am obsessed with Arancini (which originate in Sicily) so most of the time for lunch I would have an Arancini to take away, occasionally followed by a traditional ricotta cannoli (another of sicilys inventions) and an espresso. For dinner there’s are so many good options - La Brace (bistro style), Triscele, Il Caretto, and many more.

Photo Credit: @colettelinley

I had read about Cefalu being the pearl of Sicily before we planned the trip and I insisted we go there, we stayed for 3 nights, and honestly I could have stayed the full week!

Colette Linley

Travel writer

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